When I found myself on a commission to Kardamyli, in the upper Mani peninsula in Greece, I had to do one thing: visit Bruce Chatwin’s grave. Well, not exactly grave. Bruce Chatwin almost became an Orthodox Christian on his deathbed, but still he was cremated according to Anglican custom. The Greek Orthodox church does not […]
The Nafplion komboloï museum
Madam Rallou is agitated. “A Greek komboloï is not a worry-bead” she insists. It’s a mistranslation. Write it down”. I’ve arrived in Nafplion, one-and-a-half hours out of Athens, below the ancient Mycenae and Argos. It’s December, there is an astonishing 20C outside and I’m visiting Greece’s first and only worry-bead, sorry komboloï, museum. Madam Rallou […]
Greek Tourism in 2013
I’ve been to many Greek press conferences and I have seen Greek Tourism ministers come and go, but the 2013 plan presented to the international press in the 2012 World Travel Market impressed everyone, even the most sceptical of Greek domestic journalists. And believe me, having occupied the seat one of them who thought it […]